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To keep the water potable once it’s collected, the inner layer of the water tank is covered with a coating that controls levels of bacteria and fungi. The panels form an octagon with a slope of 3 degrees that allows water to funnel into the central filter and be collected into the water tank. The PhotoFlow is made up of eight identical triangular photovoltaic panels that are mounted on a 400-liter recycled polyethylene water tank.
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Despite this abundance, a large number of people living in these countries suffer from a lack of electricity and potable drinking water.īuilding upon the designs of some existing rooftop water containers, we have created a simple device to collect both of these precious natural resources to meet the need for both electricity and drinking water.” NOS says, “Most of the developing countries are located near the equator, receiving more sunlight and rainfall than most other countries on the planet. The concept is called the PhotoFlow, a combination solar photovoltaic device and rainwater harvester. Many do.This is the type of technology sorely needed in developing countries – a practical solor power device combined with a rain water tank – brilliant!Ī design company called NOS has developed a solution to two major problems facing developing countries: scarcity of drinking water and electricity. Most bottled "drinking water" is just tap water in a jug. If you're that concerned.do some homework on your local water supply, and maybe do your final rinse with distilled water. These traces won't hurt you when you drink it (it's bacteria that bites), but they leave residue on your film when it dries. that comes with tap water from your film. Photo Flo is a final wash/rinse to remove the minerals etc. If you want to experiment on your own, go right ahead.īut.all this is really about trace crap in your water. Even with that volume, we decided to keep buying Photo Flo and not risk the experiment on other people's film. We ran about 300 rolls of 35 on an average day. The only reason this conversation came up at work was because we were a very very busy lab, and always looking out for a way to save/make a dime. Recipe above gives you a lifetime supply of course.Įarlier post on this thread was wise. It adds a slippery element that prevents spotting. I heard about this recipe, but never used it.ĥ gal water (danger.your water might not be as clean as you think.)Įvidently the key is the glycerin. Many decades of work in commercial/pro labs. The fact that Kodak doesn't use it should tell you all you need to know.
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If detergent or soap worked as a wetting agent then Kodak would use it. The bottom line is - use the proper stuff. It tends to leave the neg along with the water - any residue is undetectable. This compound has a relatively small molecular size, is chemically inert and is pH neutral. Wetting agent is normally ethylene glycol (it's used in car antifreeze). People who use soap or detergent and claim it works fine usually use it in such incredibly low concentrations that it does not actually do anything. In both cases they have to be used at quite high concentrations in order to work effectively and this results in a sticky coating of soap/detergent remaining on the neg. In addition, detergents contain other compounds designed to do different things - remember that they are designed for washing greasy dishes - which themselves decompose. In addition, soap reacts with the dissolved salts in tap water to form an insoluble scum which can end up on your neg.ĭetergents are manufactured from oil and are complex long chain molecules which again can break down over time. The mixture decomposes over time to release sulphur and other nasties detrimental to your negative. To make it pH neutral you have to add an acid. Soap is made from animal fat and hydroxide.